The Flowing Well Packer is a specially engineered product that works by shutting off the well below frost level. All metal parts are stainless steel for corrosion resistance and long life. The Flowing Well Packer comes in sizes fitting 8″, 6 1/4″, 6″, 5″ and 4″ diameters.
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On a faucet that isn't frost free, you'll be able to see the valve components open and close when the handle is turned. How much does a plumber charge to replace a hose bib? Cost to Replace a Hose Bib. Replacing a hose bib, also called a spigot or sillcock, averages $175, or between $100 and $300.

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Artesian well construction details to avoid problems with frost or freezing of the flowing artesian well overflow handling piping.

This article series describes types of artesian wells, how flowing artesian wells are constructed, how water flow from the artesian well is controlled, special artesian well parts like the well spool, and we discuss special problems for artesian wells and the property around them when there is a leak in the well casing.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Frost & Ice Protection for Flowing Artesian Wells

Well casing and caps must be made and installed to withstand cold temperatures and possible freezing.

There are specialized construction techniques and devices that are used when constructing a well in flowing conditions to control the free flow of groundwater from the well..- Ontario DEQ cited below.

In our article ARTESIAN WELLS, WELL SPOOLS we describe various types of well spools used to keep artesian wells from overflowing in freezing & non-freezing climates

Here we add detail about methods used to prevent flowing artesian wells from freezing and to assure that overflow control drainage does not itself freeze around the well.

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Method 1: flowing artesian well spool to push water below the frost line

A 'flowing artesian well' is one in which pressure from within the aquifer will, left alone, actually push water right up the well casing and out of its top.

In a freezing climate, a well spool seal is used inside the well piping to seal the well casing in wells at which the static head of water level in the well casing rises above the frost level.

If your well needs or hopefully already incorporates a well spool, that means that left alone water would rise in the well casing above the frost level in your area, risking well damage.

Without this component the upper well casing could be split by freezing water.

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Our above, shows a low-pressure well spool using a clamp-on pitless adapter in a design suitable for artesian wells whose head pressure is equal to or less than 5 psi (a head of 11.5 ft.) - adapted from and courtesy of the Michigan DEP cited at the end of this article.

In non-freezing climates the well spool is not needed; instead the well installer relies on the well cap installed at the top of the well casing to keep the artesian well from overflowing.

The Michigan DEP points out that

... uncontrolled discharge of ground water from flowing wells can cause flooding of the well site and adjacent properties and damage to nearby structures. [8]

Method 2: flowing artesian well frost-proof overflow discharge drain

An alternative to using a well spool to 'cap' or withstand the pressure within an artesian well involves uses a combination of flowing artesian well water pressure delivery piping at sufficient water pressure to supply the building combined with a drain system that allows excess water to drain to an approved location without creating excessive pressure inside the well casing and piping system.

In the illustration, adapted from the MI DEP source cited below, a large diameter drain used to carry flowing artesian well excess discharge to a safe surface location.

The drain line is taken to a location that avoids problematic wet or soggy areas around the well.

The gate valve in this illustration is used to drain off excessive pressure or flow from an artesian well casing or bore.

The valve is left open (normally left with handle removed) and a screened outlet to protect against drawing contaminants in through the faucet mouth.

The air gap prevents a cross connection with the buried drain line used to carry excess water to a ditch, river, pond, or the surface.
Watch out: where a gate valve is used, the excess artesian well flow discharge is permitted with written permission from a local health department official and is not expected to be constant.

If your flowing artesian well excess water pressure and flow are constant a gate valve may not permit sufficient flow through the valve - a larger one may be needed to permit sufficient flow volume and to maintain a flow rate that prevents freezing.

Watch out: the note in the illustration suggesting 'DRAIN TO DITCH LAKE RIVER POND OR SURFACE' needs to be understood to include the air gap shown in the illustration. Never pipe a hard-connected flowing artesian well drain line from the well to beneath the surface of a ditch, lake, river, or pond.

Making that mistake, technically a cross-connection, risks back-contamination of the artesian well water during periods when the artesian well's own supply pressure falls or stops temporarily.

Question: water runs slowly over well casing - shallow sand point / driven point well?

2018/12/16 Anonymous said:

I have an old well at my cabin in Northern Michigan. The place was built in 1980 so well is that old too.

I believe it is a shallow sand point well. The problem I have is water slowly runs over well casing and the pump kicks on periodically when no water is being used.

The place isn't that big so I know no water is being used. It may go hours and not kick on and then it may kick on a couples times in a short time span.

Purely random. I'm attaching a picture of the well casing as I have searched online many times and have not seen any quite like it.

I had a well guy look at it a number of years ago and he said to smack the rod with a hammer to re-seat valve.

I have done that several times but didn't make a difference. Afraid to smack it too hard because I don't understand how this rod works. Do you have any ideas how this well configured? Also, if you move the rod to center of casing, the flow increases.

With cap off, the flow practically stop. This has been going on for years now but is getting worse. Water is good (had tested this year) and hate to spend the money on a new well as I’m not here much. - anonymous by private email

Reply:

It would be unusual but not impossible for a driven point or 'sand well' to function as artesian well - sending water up out of the casing when the casing is opened as in your photos.

That's conflicting with the well pump running intermittently for no apparent reason.

There is in my experience always a leak somewhere if that's happening - allowing water to flow back out of the building water supply system piping and pressure tank and either out at a leak or back down into the well.

A guess: is your building including its water piping higher than the well? If so, water leaking back from the building might indeed come out at the well pipe top when you open it.

Reader follow-up:

The cap is only held on by three set screws, it does not seal. This water freezes in the winter and sometimes pushes this cap off. Also, the pump and pressure tank are about 45' below top of casing.

Still want to know how the foot valve is attached to the rod (I assume it is) and where the water line attaches to/in the casing.

There is 2' galvanised pipe going from pump, thru foundation to the well.

Right now, I have the cap cocked a little so it isn't touching the rod and the water flow has stopped. Any more advise would be greatly appreciated.

Install Frost Free Well Valve